The sun spreads its rays from high above Yllästunturi, lighting up the top of Kellostapuli and the swamp that opens up in front of me behind Ylläs Visitor Centre. Day is getting closer to noon and the heat is warming my skin. I tighten the laces of my running shoes and start jogging down the path towards lake Kesänkijärvi, where my friend and I have agreed to meet. Our agenda is to visit wilderness cafes by running.
Summer temperatures warm my legs as they roll forward, but in the shade of trees the steps still feel light. As I approach the Hormistonjänkä intersection, I notice my running companion jogging to the meeting point – what a timing! We curve side by side over a bridge, accompanied by the babbling of stream, and continue along an easy path until the trail changes to duckboards. The fell Kesänkitunturi looming ahead is a sign that we will soon arrive at our first destination.
Kesängin Keidas
It takes a while before we reach the door of Kesängin Keidas café, because both sides of the yard glisten orange with sun-ripened cloudberries. After a small snack, we take the stairs to the door and enter a cool and cozy cafe, with lamps made of reindeer antlers hanging from the ceiling. It’s clear to us what we’re going to order and enjoy in Kesängin Keidas: the much-praised pancakes. Warm cinnamon buns and sugar-coated donuts placed in a basket on the counter are also a delicious sight.
After making a decision between salty and sweet pancakes, we follow sunlight flooding through the gap of the door to a large terrace, which offers a beautiful view to the Pallas-Yllästunturi national park. We sit in the sun with a delicious reindeer-stuffed crêpe and a pancake covered with cloudberry jam and whipped cream – after a hard time choosing, we end up sharing the pancakes. A long satisfied sigh. This is summer at its best.
Cafe Latva
Stomachs happy after pancakes, we continue our journey and stop by a couple of kilometers away to Cafe Latva, located at the intersection of trails in the national park. Several mountain bikes are leaning against the wooden railings of the porch as we stop for a moment in front of a map hanging by the door to check our route before slipping inside. Embraced by nature, there is a fireplace in the middle of the wilderness cafe, which warms nicely cold toes during cross-country ski trip in winter. In summer, there is no need for extra heat, but when the fire is burning, you can cook sausage sold in the cafe to fill your stomach.
We look around at the tables searching for inspiration from what other hikers have chosen to eat. People at the table closest to us are enjoying steaming soup for lunch, which today seems to be creamy salmon soup. Couple sitting at the back of the hut is sipping coffee while eating sandwiches, and a family next to them has refreshing soft drinks and several different sweet treats in front of them. This time, we also decide to take a seat inside and enjoy some cold lemonade.
Karila Navettagalleria
After a short break, our journey continues towards the third and last wilderness cafe. We return shortly the same path we came from and head north of lake Kesänkijärvi and past parking area. Ahead is the hardest part of the run: the ascent to Nilivaara. We move forward step by step with beads of sweat dripping onto our foreheads. After climbing a couple of kilometers, we turn left towards Karila as our running shoes hit the surface of the trail. At last the uphill ends and next we get to enjoy downhill. After jogging for a while we arrive at a stream and I rinse my face. Cool water refreshes wonderfully.
Running shoes take us to the yard of Karila and we go straight inside to the log barn that is full of art and stories. Works depicting northern mysticism and country life hang on the walls, and gnomes peek out from the staircase. At the far end of the barn, there is a small shop selling handicrafts, products from small producers, and coffee shop treats. The friendly employee behind the cash tells us that they make all of their cafe delicacies themselves from local ingredients. The mushrooms, herbs and berries used in the products have been collected from the yard and nearby areas. I choose whitefish made from “fish caught by the householder”, which is a specialty of the house.
As we sit outside under the canopy, I get overwhelmed by the relaxing feeling. I take off my shoes and socks and feel the cool ground under my feet. A faint scent of mint wafts into my nose from the pot decorating the table. Flowers, herbs and other plants grow in the garden, and chickens run free near goat fencing, clucking. I tuck my fork into the fish delicacy: crispy shell, inside full of juicy whitefish, and melting herbal butter on top. I take a sip of the cold refreshment and we continue enjoying the summer day in the peaceful surroundings of Karila.
