I look at the thermometer from behind a slightly frosted window. It shows -26 degrees Celsius. I know that due to the inversion, it is several degrees warmer in the fell, and the weather forecast promises calm weather for the day.
Ylläs’ snowshoe trails offer unforgettable experiences in the winter nature. One of the most beautiful trails leads to the top of Kuertunturi, from where stunning views of the surrounding fell landscape open up. This trail is a perfect choice for both experienced hikers and beginners who want to experience the magical nature of Lapland.
Snowshoeing to Kuertunturi
Preparations
I pack a warm jacket, warm gloves, a thermos full of hot drink, a small snack, and a sitting pad in my backpack. As I feel the down jacket, I remember how wonderful it feels to put it on in the fell when I am slightly sweaty and cool after the climb.
I plan to head towards Kuertunturi because the views from there are always beautiful. This time, I drive from Äkäslompolo a bit towards Kolari and park my car at the parking lot by Velhonkota by the Äkäsjoki river. I could have also left the car near the village opposite the Rouhe restaurant and walked a short distance along the pedestrian path to the Karhukoantie intersection, where the official snowshoe trail from the village begins.
The route can also be walked entirely around, as a winter trail runs back to the village of Äkäslompolo from Velhonkota, to Sivulantie. If you want to walk the entire route, you need to walk a short distance along the pedestrian path in the village. The circular route would be a good 11 kilometers. In this case, you could also leave the car at the Martinpisto parking area.
However, this time I consciously wanted to start from here and reward myself with a mouth-watering doughnut with a touch of Lapland magic at Velhonkota on my return.
Putting on snowshoes and packpack
At the parking lot, I grab my backpack, snowshoes, and poles and walk directly across the road. From here, the snowshoe trail marked with wooden, reflector-equipped route markers towards the top of Kuertunturi begins. The distance from here to the top is just over three kilometers, about a kilometer more than starting from the village.
I bend down to put on my snowshoes. A few clicks and the locks are tightened around my ankle and toes. I glance at the clock. I have many hours to reach the top and get back for the doughnut. I slip the pole loops onto my hands and start moving towards the top of Kuertunturi, ready to enjoy the beauty of the winter nature.

Step by step through the snow-covered forest
The snow on the path is initially compacted, and the path is clearly visible as a deeper groove winding through the snow. Others have been here too. I know that higher up, the path may split in different directions, and if I want to wander around the top enjoying the views, snowshoes are necessary.
I gradually climb higher and higher in the forest. Giant snow-covered trees, bent under the weight of winter snow, come into view. The sight is magical. Each figure is more magnificent than the last. It would be wonderful to walk here in the dark with a headlamp, perhaps with the northern lights dancing in the sky. Each step takes me deeper into the winter wonderland.
Even if it happens to be a bit cloudy higher up, it doesn’t matter – it’s already so beautiful and peaceful down here. Now the snow sparkles on the surface of the snowdrift in the sunshine like millions of diamonds, and the snowy trees stand out beautifully against the bright sky.
At the top
Finally, the forest thins out and ends completely. Higher up, there are only a few small twisted pines with snowy branches. The snow at the top is harder, but when I step a little off the path, I almost lose my balance as the snowshoe sinks deep into the snowdrift.
At the top, I stop for a moment to breathe the fresh air and admire the views. From up here, there are magnificent views down to the village of Äkäslompolo and the nearby fells. You can see and recognize all seven fells of Ylläs from here: Ylläs, Kesänki, Lainio, Kukas, Pyhä, Aakenus, and Kuertunturi under your feet.
With good visibility, you can admire the views to the north. All the way to the Pallas fells and towards Outakka, the highest peak of the Ounastunturi fells, visible to the left of them. If you have a map with you, it is easier to identify the nearby fells.
The view is like a postcard – snowy fells stretch as far as the eye can see, and the sky is bright blue. I take a few deep breaths and feel a sense of peace wash over me.
I take out some warm tea from my backpack and put on the down jacket while I enjoy my drink. I slip on warmer gloves for the break. After drinking my tea, I take pictures in every direction. My hand quickly gets cold but warms up just as quickly when I put the glove back on.

The return journey
As I descend the same route I came up, I now admire the snowy giants from a different perspective and notice how the landscape and colors change all the time. The light filters through the trees, creating beautiful shadows on the spring snow.
When I reach the car, I leave unnecessary items in the trunk and continue a short distance along the winter trail over the Äkäsjoki river to Velhonkota. As I enter, warmth floods my face, and the chatter fills the space. I order a doughnut and hot chocolate from the counter. Sitting in the warmth of the café, I take the first bite of the fresh doughnut. The doughnuts are known for their deliciousness, and their secret ingredient is anise. A wonderful end to the trip. Next time, I decide to go to the fell at dusk and take my camera with me. Maybe I’ll capture the northern lights in a photo.

Plan your own snowshoe trip
If you plan to go snowshoeing, the Kuertunturi snowshoe trail is an ideal option. On the trail, you will often encounter magnificent snow-covered trees, and from the top, there are great views in many directions. There are also other options where you can head with your snowshoes.
Get the digital map of Ylläs on your phone, which you can use to help plan. The map also shows your location in the terrain, so you can ensure you are heading in the right direction if needed. The paper map also shows all the snowshoe trails in Ylläs.
Before heading out, it is good to check the weather forecast for the day and make sure you have warm clothes in your backpack. Also, remember to fully charge your phone’s battery so it lasts in the cold air. Pack a thermos of hot drink and a small snack so you can enjoy breaks along the way.
If necessary, rent snowshoes in advance or pick them up on the morning of your departure day. If you want to enjoy the trip without worrying about where to go, you can also rely on the professional guides in the area who know the routes and the best viewpoints.
Snowshoeing to Kuertunturi is an experience that will stay with you for a long time. Embark on an adventure and experience the winter magic of the fell and the fresh air. This trip offers unforgettable moments and stunning views that reward the effort many times over.