The car windshield has needed scraping for several mornings now, and the crisp, clear days hint unmistakably at the approaching winter. A light veil of snow fell over the fells a week ago, but the larger lakes have remained unfrozen. Lately, however, the cold has tightened its grip, and the lakes are steadily giving in to ice, thickening rapidly.
Rumors are swirling: the best moments for Nordic skating might be just around the corner. In Ylläs, these days are few and far between. Snow tends to arrive quickly, covering the pristine ice before skaters get their chance. Careful planning begins.
A quick glance at the weather forecast promises perfect conditions for the upcoming day off: sunshine and calm winds. The days leading up to it will be well below freezing, giving the ice plenty of time to grow thicker.
Butterflies in the stomach and eyes sparkling with excitement
Packing for the adventure includes Nordic skates and compatible boots, ice picks, a throw rope, and a backpack. Into the backpack go a warm jacket for breaks, spare clothes in a waterproof bag, a thermos of something hot to drink, and delicious snacks. On the evening before the trip, we craft our own ice poles to check ice thickness. Following instructions, we make them from broom handles and long, sturdy bolts, which we screw tightly into the ends. The pole is used to test the ice ahead of the skater. If the tip pierces through, it’s time to find another route or turn back.
The morning of departure is stunning. We’ve heard reports from the previous day: the ice thickness is close to ten centimeters of solid black ice. The sun rises low on the horizon, and our breath forms clouds in the cold air. There’s a hint of nervous excitement—some in the group are skating for the first time. Lessons about getting out of the ice and checking its thickness echo in our minds. We study the map in advance, looking for possible spots near the shore where currents might weaken the ice.
At the lake’s edge, we hang our ice picks around our necks, swap boots for skates, and sling our backpacks on. We leave a note by our shoes, letting others know we’ve gone skating.
The first feeling is like being a baby deer on slippery ice. For a moment, it feels like I’ve never skated before—the skates seem to take control more than my own legs. My fingertips sting until movement and gloves warm them up after the skate change.
Nordic skating – joy on natural ice
The ice is crystal clear, and the shallow bottom is visible through it, offering a direct view of the shoreline’s underwater vegetation and beautiful stones shimmering golden in the sunlight. At first, we strike the ice more frequently with our poles to double-check its thickness, even though we’ve received reliable measurements from the previous evening. The ice feels solid, and we begin skating cautiously along the shore.
With each push, skating feels more confident and the glides grow longer. We speed along the shoreline with smiles on our faces. In the distance, we spot other skaters as well. Occasionally, the ice hums and gurgles as it continues to settle and thicken.
We skate several kilometers, admiring the snow-covered fells in the distance. From time to time, we check the map to make sure we don’t unknowingly pass any current spots without verifying the ice thickness, and we proceed with extra caution in a few areas. The ice is almost entirely clear and transparent black ice—unbelievably smooth and shiny. In a few places, the ice turns milky in color, adding a thrilling sensation beneath our skates. I’ve skated on natural ice a few times before, but I’ve never experienced anything quite like this.
A thrilling natural drama
After a while, we meet other skaters who warn us about a weaker spot near an upcoming headland. Earlier today, a more experienced—and slightly adventurous—Nordic skater had fallen through the ice there. Fortunately, they managed to get out safely using their ice picks, with help from a companion, and were able to change into dry clothes. The headland can be easily bypassed by walking on land, so we continue for a while, following the shoreline. We don’t feel like venturing toward the center of the lake and prefer to stay near the shore, where the bottom is still visible.
We eventually turn back toward the snack spot we had chosen earlier. As we reach the far side of that same headland, an incredible sound erupts from the ice. A loud bang—like a cannon shot—echoes across the wide lake and bounces off the opposite shores. Yet we see nothing. Moments later, a couple skates up behind us, breathless but with eyes sparkling: “Did you see that?”
“What?” we ask.
Out on the lake, the ice had shifted and pressed together at a crack with such force that the pressure finally became too much. As a result, the edges of the ice at the fracture point exploded upward, rising against each other and splashing water high into the air. The sight had been dramatic. No wonder the sound carried so powerfully across the entire lake.
The highlight of an unforgettable Nordic skating day
We continue toward the starting point by the shore, where there’s a perfectly sized embankment for sitting. A seat pad on the slope and voilà – the ideal outdoor chair is ready. Everyone pulls out their seat pads, thermoses, mugs, and delicious snacks. There are sandwiches, homemade gingerbread cookies, and mini tarts with tasty jam. Every bite tastes heavenly after a day spent outdoors.
After enjoying the snacks and the glorious sunshine, it’s time to head home. The day has been so wonderful, we wish it wouldn’t end. The following days continue to offer great conditions for skaters, even as the first light layers of snow begin to fall on the ice. That day will stay in my memory as a beautiful and unique experience. I’ll surely remember it for the rest of my life.
When conditions start to look promising, it’s a good idea to make small scouting trips to the shore and ask about the ice situation — rental shops are a great source of local knowledge. In Ylläs, Nordic skates can be rented at Sport Corner and Äkäslompolo Sportshop. These shops also provide ice picks. Ask separately about other safety equipment, or be prepared to bring your own.